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Azad Kashmir

Neelum Valley

River-hugging villages and deep pine forest.

Tours

Tours to Neelum Valley

Ready-made itineraries that visit this destination.

Neelum Valley

Neelum is the long, narrow valley that runs about 200 km north-east from Muzaffarabad along the Neelum river, with the Line of Control on the far bank for much of its length. It is the greenest of the northern valleys — forested slopes, wooden villages and the river never out of sight — and the base for Arang Kel, Ratti Gali and Sharda.

Up the valley from Muzaffarabad

The road starts at Muzaffarabad, about four hours from Islamabad, and follows the river through Keran, Upper Neelum, Sharda, Kel and finally Taobat at the head of the valley. It is paved to Sharda and progressively rougher beyond, with the last stretch to Taobat requiring a jeep. Distances are deceptive: Kel is only about 155 km from Muzaffarabad but takes the better part of a day because of the road, so most itineraries build in an overnight at Keran or Sharda rather than pushing straight through.

Keran, Sharda and Kel

Keran is the first major stop, a riverside village directly across the water from its namesake on the other side of the LoC, and has the widest choice of riverside hotels. Sharda, further up, holds the ruins of a Sharada Peeth, an ancient centre of learning, and is the usual base for Ratti Gali. Kel sits at about 2,100 m at the confluence with the Shounter valley and is the jumping-off point for Arang Kel, the meadow village above it that most people come to Neelum for.

Arang Kel and Ratti Gali

Arang Kel is reached from Kel by a chairlift across the river and then a steep hour-and-a-half walk, or by horse — a small green plateau of wooden houses with the valley falling away below. Ratti Gali Lake, at roughly 3,700 m, is a jeep ride of about three hours from Dowarian near Sharda followed by a short walk, and is usually reachable from late June to September. Both are the reason people put up with the long drive in.

Permits, season and practicalities

Neelum runs along the Line of Control, so ID checks are routine and foreign nationals need a permit obtained through Muzaffarabad; Pakistani nationals need CNIC. We arrange the paperwork for foreign travellers in advance rather than at the gate. The season is roughly May to October, with the upper valley and Ratti Gali opening from late June. Mobile coverage is patchy above Keran and largely absent at Arang Kel, and power in the upper valley is often generator-only in the evening.

Neelum compared with the other valleys

Neelum is greener and more forested than Hunza or Skardu and considerably less developed than Kaghan. Its distinctive feature is the river and the Line of Control running alongside it — you are looking across at villages on the other side for much of the drive, which is unlike anywhere else in Pakistan. The trade-off is the road: distances that look short take a long time, hotels above Sharda are basic, and the best places, Arang Kel and Ratti Gali, both require leaving the vehicle behind.

Common questions

Frequently asked questions

Straight answers to what travellers ask us most.

Do I need a permit for Neelum Valley?+
Pakistani nationals need CNIC for the routine checkposts. Foreign nationals need a permit issued through Muzaffarabad, which we arrange in advance.
How do I get to Arang Kel?+
From Kel, by chairlift across the river followed by a steep walk of about ninety minutes, or on horseback. There is no road up.
When is Ratti Gali Lake accessible?+
Roughly late June to September. It is about three hours by jeep from Dowarian plus a short walk, and snow closes it outside that window.
How long does Neelum Valley take?+
Five to six days from Islamabad is comfortable if you want to reach Kel and Arang Kel. Keran and Sharda alone can be done in three to four.

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